Coastal communities across England have been making a case for their own corner of the country as part of VisitEngland’s My Coast Has the Most campaign. It has sparked a little friendly rivalry as people share the places, stories and experiences they believe make their stretch of coastline worthy of the title. Here in Ilfracombe, we were hardly going to stand quietly by while the rest of the country stole the limelight.
Eliot, from The Carlton, is an active member of Ilfracombe’s business community, so he began gathering local people together and asking them what they felt most proud of and their reasons to visit Ilfracombe. He did not have to search far. Ilfracombe is full of people who care deeply about the town, understand what makes it special and are only too happy to explain why visitors should head to the North Devon coast.
North Devon or South Devon?
Devon has long been one of the UK’s favourite holiday destinations, but many people planning a trip to the county instinctively look south. They know the English Riviera, Salcombe and the sheltered coves scattered along the southern coastline.
South Devon is undeniably beautiful. Its wooded valleys, gentle scenery and calmer waters have earned it plenty of devoted visitors. North Devon has a different appeal, and anyone who has only explored the south of the county may be surprised by what they find when they travel north.
The cliffs are higher, the bays feel broader and the Atlantic gives the coastline a rawness that shapes the whole area. There are headlands where the wind catches you, beaches that stretch far into the distance and waves that draw surfers, swimmers and spectators throughout the year.
Ilfracombe sits within this landscape as a busy harbour town with its own personality. People live and work here all year round, running businesses, creating things, welcoming visitors and preserving the stories that have shaped the town. The scenery may be the first thing you notice, but it is the life within the town that gives Ilfracombe its character and supplies many reasons to visit Ilfracombe.
A Coast with an Independent Spirit
Elliot chose Ilfracombe’s entrepreneurs when he was asked what our coast has the most of. “Our coast has the most entrepreneurs,” he said. “It has a fantastic band of small businesses, creators, people that make a real difference to our customers’ experience of enjoying their time on the coast in Ilfracombe.”
Visitors encounter that independent spirit everywhere. It can be found in the shops and galleries, in the cafés and restaurants and among the people offering activities on land and at sea. These are often businesses run by people who live locally and want their guests and customers to enjoy the place as much as they do.
Elliot’s invitation is to come and experience Ilfracombe in whichever way suits you, whether that means getting out on the water, swimming in it, spending time on the beach, taking to the air or exploring on foot. There are no shortage of reasons to visit Ilfracombe.
Matt, from Black Sands bar and restaurant in central Ilfracombe, chose the people and the community. Starting a business in the town helped him become part of local life, and he spoke warmly about how welcome he has felt.
“My coast has the most fabulous and amazing people and community,” he said. “Setting up a business has really got us involved in the community, and of course we get to chat to loads of people as well that we’ve either met through the day or we already know. We are really, really super proud that we’ve been massively welcomed into the community.” At the end of the working day, Matt enjoys walking down to the harbour, looking out across the water and passing Damien Hirst’s Verity statue. It also gives him another chance to catch up with the people he knows from around the town.
Ilfracombe is a place where business owners recognise their customers, conversations continue outside the shop or restaurant and visitors are welcomed into a community rather than treated as part of the passing summer trade.
Seeing the Coastline from the Water
Most people first take in the North Devon coast from the land. They see it from the clifftops, the harbour or one of the coastal paths. Terri, from Coastal Swim Coaching, spends much of her time viewing it from sea level and believes this is one of the best reasons to visit Ilfracombe. She takes groups into the water for open-water swimming lessons, helping people understand the sea and develop the skills and confidence they need to swim safely. “We swim along the coastline all the time,” Terri said. “What I love to see, especially under the water, is when you swim over the rocks, full of reeds and seaweed, and sometimes you see the odd fish. At the moment, we’re definitely seeing lots of jellyfish, which move so beautifully in the water and are just spectacular.”
Swimming gives Terri a close-up view of the marine life many visitors never see. The landscape continues beneath the surface, where seaweed moves with the current, fish dart between the rocks and jellyfish drift through the water. She is also a great admirer of North Devon’s beaches, which give people plenty of opportunities to sit beside the sea when they would rather stay dry.
The History Hidden Around the Harbour
Ilfracombe has been shaped by the sea for centuries, and much of its history can still be found around the harbour. The buildings and landmarks people pass every day have connections with smuggling, the English Civil War and the town’s maritime past. Mark Langworthy, from Devon History Tours, leads guided walks that explain these connections and bring Ilfracombe’s history to life. “The amount of history that people walk by every day, not realising what things do, connections to the smuggling days, Civil War days and the maritime side of it,” he said. “There’s a tremendous amount here which I’m really, really interested in, and I think the public should get to hear about it.”
Mark points to St Nicholas Chapel as one example. He describes it as the oldest building in the harbour area and explains how it began as a chapel before later being converted into a lighthouse.
Places that may appear familiar or unremarkable take on a different meaning once you understand what happened there. The harbour becomes connected to the people who sailed from it, traded through it, defended it and sometimes used it for activities they would rather the authorities did not know about.
A walk with a local history guide gives visitors a chance to hear the stories behind the buildings and to understand Ilfracombe as more than a picturesque stopping point on the coast. Just another one on a long list of reasons to visit Ilfracombe.
The Places Our Team Return To
Woolacombe and Ilfracombe Harbour appear on many North Devon itineraries, and with good reason. When we asked members of The Carlton team where they like to spend their own time, however, they chose a few places visitors may not immediately think of.
Kelsey, our assistant hotel manager, loves Lynton and Lynmouth. She recommends heading there for a walk, enjoying the scenery and finding a pub for lunch or a quiet drink. The journey along the coast also gives visitors the chance to see another part of North Devon and experience the steep hillsides and wooded valleys around the two towns.
Claire, our housekeeping manager, enjoys sitting near Wildersmouth with fish and chips and watching the sun go down. She can happily stay there for hours, enjoying the view and the peacefulness of being beside the sea.
Lindsay, who also works in housekeeping, recommends Hele Bay, particularly for anyone travelling with a dog. It has a more tucked-away feel than some of the larger beaches and is a lovely place to spend time away from the busiest parts of the coast.
Attila, our former bar supervisor, prefers to climb Capstone Hill. The walk gives you a bit of exercise, followed by wide views across Ilfracombe and out to sea. On a clear day, you may also be able to see Lundy Island and the Welsh coastline in the distance.
These are the kinds of recommendations that can change a holiday. They often come from a quick conversation over breakfast or at reception, when somebody who knows the area points you towards the walk, beach or viewpoint they choose on their own days off.
When Should You Visit Ilfracombe?
Summer is the busiest season in Ilfracombe, but it was far from the unanimous favourite among our team. Kelsey chooses spring. The days become brighter, the flowers begin to appear and the whole area starts to feel more colourful after winter. It is also a lovely time to explore before the busiest part of the holiday season begins. Lindsay prefers summer, when the weather is warmer, the town is lively and visitors can stay on the beach well into the day. Claire’s favourite time is September and the beginning of autumn. She enjoys seeing the leaves change colour and recommends driving through North Devon, walking the coast path or spending time on Exmoor during the season. Attila chooses winter for a completely different reason. He loves the coast when storms are passing through and waves are crashing against the rocks. Watched from a safe place, the sea can be just as impressive in rough weather as it is on a calm summer day.
There is no single answer because Ilfracombe changes considerably throughout the year. Some visitors want long beach days and a bustling harbour, while others prefer quieter walks, autumn colours or the drama of the winter sea. That’s even more reasons to visit Ilfracombe, so you can witness it in every season.
Come and See What We Are Proud Of
So, does the North Devon coast really have the most? We may be biased, but the people who live and work here have given us plenty of reasons to believe it does. They are proud of the businesses they have built, the community they belong to, the sea they swim in and the stories that have been passed down through the town.
North Devon offers a side of the county that many visitors have yet to experience. The scale of the landscape, the force of the Atlantic and the character of its coastal towns make it feel very different from the south.
Stay with us at The Carlton and use Ilfracombe as your starting point. Spend some time around the harbour, speak to the people running local businesses, walk a section of the coast path or head out with somebody who can show you what lies beneath the water or behind the town’s familiar buildings.
You may arrive wondering whether our coast really does have the most. By the time you leave, you might be ready to join the campaign yourself.
Please call 01271 862446 to book your stay at The Carlton or email eliot@ilfracombecarlton.co.uk for further information.